Two invitations arrive. One says “Formal,” the other “Semi-Formal.” Do you know what to wear and more importantly, what not to wear? A true southern gentleman knows the difference and how to stand out at both events.
Once upon a more sartorially inclined time, men regularly attended events at which black tie and white tie were worn. In those more decorous days, formal meant white tie and tails while semi formal referred to dinner clothes, tuxedos and other iterations of black tie. Alas, those days are behind us, and we’ve been plunged into a world that no longer has the foggiest what formal and semi formal mean. We live in dark times, gentlemen.
But hark! – what’s that off in the distance? Is it a light at the end of the tunnel? A beacon in the darkness? A small glimmer of hope?
Why yes it is, because today we’re breaking down the dress codes in terms even the most style-challenged man can understand. Here’s what formal and semi formal mean, the do’s and don’ts of each, and inspiration for your next event.
Definitions of Formal & Semi Formal
At its most basic, contemporary formal dress generally encompasses both white tie and black tie dress codes. Semi formal, as the name implies, is slightly more relaxed – think a dark suit and a tie, or anything you’d refer to as “cocktail” dress.
Men’s Formal Attaire
The tuxedo is the heart of formal dress. For the DRESSIEST of occasions, bow tie is a must – a tailed jacket, white shirt and white bow tie. For slightly less starched occasions, black tie is the order of the day – a tailless jacket, black cummerbund or waistcoat, and a black bow tie. Other events may call for morning dress, the daytime formal dress code, which consists of a morning coat, a waistcoat and striped trousers. Note: Yes, you can go a blue tuxedo if you want for not so formal formal.
Formal Do’s & Don’ts
- Do familiarise yourself with the traditional tuxedo. Here’s where it came from. And here’s how to wear it.
- Don’t improvise. This is not the time for a black shirt (or any colour other than white, for that matter), an expressive tie, or designer sneakers. Stick with the classics and look Rat Pack immaculate.
- Do nail the fit. Your tailor is your best friend. Be sure your trousers aren’t too long and your jacket isn’t too loose. Your formalwear should fit like a sports car, not an SUV.
- Don’t neglect your grooming. Shower. Shave. Apply cologne (but not excessively). Remove flashy jewellery. Resist the urge to try out a bold new hairstyle.
- Do take matters into your own hands. Learn how to tie a bow tie. You live in the era of the YouTube tutorial – there’s no excuse for anything pre-tied. And while you’re at it, avoid rental tuxedos with equal fervour.
- Don’t match your date. This is not prom. No matter how insistent she may be, the purpose of your tuxedo is not to compliment her dress. It deserves to shine in the spotlight all on its own.
Men’s Semi Formal Attaire
A tuxedo would not be appropriate for a semi formal event, but it’s still important to remain elegant, sophisticated and neat. A dark suit and tie are expected for semi formal events in the evening. During daytime semi formal events, lighter suits are acceptable (but keep shirts and ties towards the conservative end of the spectrum). Shoes should remain dressy and accessories, like pocket squares and wristwatches, should be understated.
At the end of the day, there’s one DO that matters more than anything else: if you’re ever unsure of what your host expects, do ask. You can rest assured that you’ll look the part, and they’ll appreciate your effort to get it right. Other than that, these do’s and don’ts will get you by:
Semi Formal Do’s & Don’ts
- Do wear the right suit. A tuxedo is too much. A summer seersucker suit is too little. A dark wool, gabardine or cashmere suit is just right. If the event takes place during the day, a lighter suit is an option.
- Don’t be afraid to ditch the tie. These days, it’s ok to go tie-less at semi formal events. If you prefer the polished look that a tie provides, steer clear of anything too loud. Save the novelty neckwear for your office Christmas parties.
- Don’t underdress. Note that semi formal still includes the word “formal”. Dress accordingly. Khakis, jeans and shorts have no place at semi formal events. Neither do polo shirts. Neither do sneakers. You get the picture.
- But do follow the Golden Rule. When in doubt, it’s better to overdress than underdress. If you’re deciding between two items, err on the side of the more formal option. If you happen to show up to an event overdressed, you can de-formal-fy your outfit with little tricks like removing your tie.
This article originally appearing in D’Marge.