Along the lush rolling hills and green pastures of Middle Tennessee lies Leiper’s Fork, a small community eight miles southwest of Franklin, Tennessee. A handful of natives who were born in or near the area mill about with a few dozen out-of-area transplants, who on most weekends, play host to throngs of tourists – both local and beyond – that what to soak up the quaint peacefulness of a community seemingly unscathed by time and technology. Two of Leiper’s Fork’s most remarkable destinations that bring personality to Middle Tennessee include the Leiper’s Fork Distillery and Pot N’ Kettle Cottages.

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Williamson County’s Storied Whiskey Past

The past decade has given rise to entrepreneurs who have opened all types of distilleries. But before Kennedy’s liquid dream could become a reality, a brief understanding of Williamson County’s whiskey legacy deserves mention.

OneSouthernMan’s Paul Stanley & Tammy Mabry learning how whiskey/bourbon is made at Leiper’s Fork Distillery/OneSouthernMan2017

When the topic of modern whiskey and bourbon production arises, most of us think of Kentucky as the bourbon capital of the world, and no one disputes the Bluegrass state produces some of the world’s finest spirits. Many don’t realize that before Tennessee passed its prohibition law in 1910 (Federal prohibition began in 1920), there was roughly the same number of distilleries in both Tennessee and Kentucky; about 320 compared to 400.

If we venture back to the reconstruction years that followed the War Between the States, Tennessee newspapers reported that distilleries were the Volunteer State’s largest manufacturing sector, and Williamson County played their part, with the White Maple Distillery producing about 150 gallons daily. 

The Kennedy family has been on both sides of Tennessee’s Whiskey trade. During prohibition, Lee Locke Kennedy was a revenue agent whose job included shutting down about 73 illegal whiskey and moonshine stills in Williamson County over three months. 

Unfortunately, late one Saturday evening as the revenue agent was returning home; he was shot down by gunmen hired by the infamous Williamson County Whiskey Ring. Thankfully, things are much different for some of the Kennedy clan today.

Transitioning from White Collar to Distiller

Lee Kennedy loves bourbon. That’s obvious from his facial expression when I ask how he began his quest to create a superior bourbon. That desire only places him alongside hundreds of other distillers who work diligently to quench the thirst of brown-spirit fans. What allows him to be among a small fraternity of bourbon enthusiasts is he nourishes his hobby from scratch for both the love of creating outstanding whiskey and hopefully, a comfortable living. 

As the proprietor and distiller of Leiper’s Fork Distillery, Kennedy’s track to small batch bourbon maker seemed a distant dream when his teenage interest sparked a desire to distill the hard spirit. “I’ve always known I wanted to own a bourbon distillery,” the athletic, ponytail wearing Middle-Tennessean recalled, as we sat rocking comfortably outside the distillery.

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Operating “Miss Ginger,” the distillery’s custom made still is an important job for Catlin Christian/OneSouthernMan2017

Fast-forward through his teens and early career which included stints in real estate and construction, and it was only a few short years ago that he earned his living as a financial professional, watching the daily markets emulate either bulls or bears. Today Kennedy’s days are measured by the taste of his newly created bourbon. 

The Distillery

The distillery sits on several acres along South Hall Road, just east of Old Hillsboro Road and the heart of Leiper’s Fork. Would it surprise you to know that Colonel Henry Hunter, who also made his own Tennessee whiskey once owned this property?  Kennedy purchased the land in 1998 from Hunter’s family, making him the fourth owner of the property? The War of 1812 veteran is buried on the grounds, about 700 yards from the distillery.

The main building is an original, circa 1825 cabin that houses the gift shop and a soon-to-be-expanded tasting room. Before you taste anything, a $10 per person distillery tour should be your top priority. Matt King, our tour and tasting guide, went into extensive detail on their whiskey/bourbon making process, even allowing my guest and me to sample clear, 150-proof whiskey straight (137-140 is their target proof) from “Miss Ginger,” their custom-made copper still. At 10:30 a.m. on a Tuesday, it was a nice pick-me-up.

Speaking of tastings, do you know the difference between whiskey and bourbon? The short answer is that all bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskeys are bourbon. Think about that statement for a minute before you ask Lee, Matt, or another tour guide to explain the difference.

What’s the difference between whiskey & bourbon? This board gives a hint but other factors are important too/OneSouthernMan2017

The first thing you’ll notice in the distillery barn is the attention to detail all the construction to the distilling process. The barn was built with true craftsmanship, using only hand-carved, wooden pegs, known as Mortise and Tenon, to hold the massive beams in place. Somewhere between five to twelve barrels are made each week from tanks made by 120-year old cypress wood. A typical batch spends about four hours in a mash cooker, three to five days in fermentation tanks, before finishing the remaining six to twelve hours in Miss Ginger. 

In April of 2016, the first batch of bourbon was finished and barrelled, quietly awaiting the finishing step four years later. Aside from Kennedy’s investment in property, equipment, and labor, he pays over $700 in federal taxes on every barrel. So technically, the federal government owns his bourbon while it’s aging and getting that mature, brown color and oak taste that makes bourbon so delightful from corn grown only four miles away.

Legislative Approval Was Easy; Local Approval Proved Challenging

Opening an ice cream shop or retail clothing store is relatively easy, considering the legal and regulatory are relatively low. If you wanted to open a distillery before 2009, well, that was impossible due to Tennessee state law. 

One of the surprises of my visit to Leiper’s Fork Distillery was finding out I played an important, albeit small role in the distillery’s founding. In late spring of 2009, I was serving my final session in the Tennessee State Senate. My legislative focus was passing the direct wine shipping bill that allowed consumers to order directly from out-of-state vineyards. At the same time, the legislature was considering and passing several laws governing liquor and spirits, one of which allowed new distilleries to operate in other counties.

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Kennedy was thrilled, yet a curvy road lay ahead. He began by talking to neighbors, going door-to-door as if asking for votes as a candidate for school board or the city council. “I sat on many sofas and around a lot of kitchen tables,” Kennedy explained, describing his strategy to open his dream business. “I wanted to make sure the neighbors were okay with me and everything else.”

Another round of political visits ensued as the future distiller spent months convincing Williamson County Commissioners that a local distillery would attract tourists, which in local government speak, means tax dollars from people that reside outside of the county line. The final phase came as Kennedy got the nod from influential residents and landowners whose approval some commissioners needed to feel comfortable approving on the third and final reading. Including Leiper’s Fork Distillery, about 40 distilleries operating in Tennessee today.

Original hand carvings in the circa 1825 main building at Leiper’s Fork Distillery/OneSouthernMan2017

Bourbon Is All In the Taste

After the tour, we ventured back into the distillery’s main cabin for a tasting. If you need a restroom break while visiting inside this building, look for the writing carved into the wood during the cabin’s original construction. 

Standing opposite the gift shop is the small, but soon to be expanded tasting room. Matt had only given us a whiff and taste of virgin whiskey. Now the real stuff awaited our palettes. 

We began with three Glen Carin tasting glasses designed to unravel the complexities of fine whiskey. On the far left was a Tennessee White Whiskey made of 70 percent corn, 22 percent rye, and eight percent malted barley. Opposite, and on the far right, was a Rye White Whiskey of 70 percent rye, 22 percent corn, with the same barley percentage. Both are 90 proof. Absent any time in the barrel, both are crystal clear, with a clean, sweeter taste.  In the middle was a brown, 10-year old bourbon sourced by the distillery named Colonel Hunter’s Single Barrel Tennessee Bourbon Whiskey.

Tour guide and whiskey expert Matt King discusses the finer points of tasting with Tammy Mabry/OneSouthernMan2017

The Art of Tasting Whiskey

Showing us to depict the nose of whiskey, Matt gently brought the glass to his nose three times to measure the alcohol, aroma, and finally the depth of each. Next came something I’ve never associated with drinking whiskey or bourbon; we “chewed” the fiery liquid. Chewing helps acclimate the taste with what Matt referred to as a “Tennessee Hug” or the lingering finish. 

The special ingredient that will ultimately give Leiper’s Fork Distillery bourbon its unique taste is the limestone water that is so abundant in parts of Middle Tennessee. “Proofing down,” or adding just a few drops of water, helps decrease the strength, giving us a lingering and sweet corn taste.

What’s the best method to drink fine whiskey and bourbons? This question generates much debate, but the easy answer is, “any way you like it.” I prefer neat over one round cube, sometimes with a small splash of water. I’m certainly not opposed to sipping it straight, yet cringed as Matt recounted the story of someone pouring Coca-Cola over a 25-year old Pappy Van Winkle shot. Oh well, to each his own. 

The Wait Was Worth the Whiskey

Today Kennedy exhibits a glint of satisfaction when he allows himself a moment to relax in one of the distillery’s outdoor rocking chairs. Knowing all of the legal and regulatory hurdles are distant memories. Like a finely aged bourbon, his long, salt and pepper hair and his distillery are gracefully aging as they wait to see what the future holds and how it tastes.

Lee Kennedy, the owner, and proprietor of Leiper’s Fork Distillery talks about making bourbon & the operation/OneSouthernMan2017

Leiper’s Fork Distillery is producing about 25,000 gallons annually. To successfully compete, Kennedy needs a net 30 percent return to balance the distillery’s financial scales. 2018 saw 20,000 paid visitors, and Colonel Hunter’s their hand-selected sourced bourbon, sold around 12,000 bottles total last year. Don’t expect to see a huge marketing push for this product because those dollars are being reserved for when their oak barrels give birth to their small-batch whiskey next year.

In the meantime, Kennedy and his staff have lots of work ahead. Construction on a new storage facility is underway on the grounds, the tasting room is expanding, and the anticipation of their rye and bourbon batches debuting keeps this new distiller on his toes. Only time is needed to open those first barrels in the spring of 2020, and what a day that will be for Kennedy and his close family and friends.

Don’t get the impression all you will find at the distillery is whiskey making equipment. There is a lovely gift shop in the main building, which sells not only Colonel Henry’s bourbon, but also apparel, drinking accessories, and other neat gifts. Kennedy, like so many neighbors, is an avid music fan. Known as the Still House Sessions, solo performers, singer/songwriters, and bands play about six times a year to an intimate gathering of fans. May’s show featured a few friends and former band members of Waylon Jennings and was a huge success. The next session on Saturday, June 28, features Kevin Welch. The doors open about 6:30 p.m. and shows usually begin at 8 p.m. Seating is limited to reserve your tickets today. Call 615-465-6456 or email them at info@leipersforkdistillery.com.

Pot N’ Kettle Cottages Add Color & Luxury to a Leiper’s Fork Visit

One thing that makes Leiper’s Fork such a unique Middle Tennessee oasis is how locals and transplants meld together so well. I seriously doubt Samanta (Sam) and Eric Coghlin envisioned operating a vacation cottage rental company and living in a tiny Tennessee community when they met 14 years ago in gemology in San Diego, CA. Eric grew up in Mississippi, and undoubtedly his southern roots pulled the family back home after a July 4th visit in 2013. Interestingly, the Coglin’s operated a 20-acre vineyard near Santa Barbara and plan on transferring their winemaking skills to Leiper’s Fork sometime in 2020. Their vineyard will be known as Leiper’s Fork Winery.

While discussing quaint places to stay in Leiper’s Fork, Lee Kennedy put me in contact with Sam, and within a couple of hours, my friend and I had gone from taking a day trip to walking in their most significant property, affectionally known as the Leiper’s Fork Inn.

View driving up to the Leiper’s Fork Inn on Old Hillsboro Road/PotNKettleCottages

Leaving the heart of the “downtown” area, the Leiper’s Fork Inn is only a mile or so southwest along Old Hillsboro Rd. You’ll immediately see the body of an antique pickup truck in the front lawn, beside the gravel drive leading to the main white house with its turquoise door and trim. Unraveling my thoughts long enough to describe this comfortable and charming property is challenging. At first glance, I thought the property contained multiple cottages. However, the two additional structures are a refurbished garage and a small cabin ideal for brides or grooms to gather and change before heading out to the lighted, open space on the grounds which hosts several wedding each year. Or perhaps the tiny house would be a quiet place to find inspiration for a song or novel.  

The cottages decor is stunning. The light blue walls offer a soothing ambiance for Sam’s interior design skills. On the left side of the large, front room are nine hand-drawn sketches that bring an exciting dynamic to the conversation area.

The artwork in the Leiper’s Fork Inn is a testament to the creativity of Sam & Eric Coglin/PotNKettleCottages

The cottage has four bedrooms, anchored by a large master bedroom and bath in the rear with an outside door that leads to a screened in porch. Its spacious layout has an airy, open feeling, but like most older homes, is separated by several rooms. Besides the multiple porches and outdoor sitting areas, if pressed, I would say my favorite part of this gorgeous property is the kitchen. 

Retro Versus Rural Country

A long wooden dining table sits in the middle of the kitchen, and the retro-colored, yellow refrigerator and oven bring a ray of sunshine to the room. If cooking is something you enjoy while on vacation, then the updated appliances and ample counter space are terrific, especially if you are entertaining guests for a function or wedding. Try as you may, it’s impossible to miss the large clock opposite the long counter. The couples art and jewelry background inspired the purchase of this oversized piece of artwork.

Large artwork clock in the kitchen at Leiper’s Fork Inn/PotNKettleCottages

Music fans won’t be disappointed because they can sit down and play a white, upright piano or reach for the Fender electric guitar to plug into the small amp in the corner. With all the incredible artwork in this cottage, pay special attention to the mural above the piano. Coniseouriers of songwriting and music composition may recognize the gentleman sitting down as the legendary Quincy Jones. If you find yourself stumped to name the elegant lady standing over his right shoulder, then ask Sam to tell you the story of her mother and Mr. Jones.

The mural above the piano features composer Quincy Jones & his longtime companion, Sam’s beautiful mother/PotNKettleCottages

Besides the Inn, Pot N’ Kettle Cottages also offers three additional properties in Leiper’s Fork; the Coda, Tin Roof, and Pickers cottages offer travelers. All are immaculately decorated and furnished, guaranteeing you a luxurious and cozy space while you absorb the magic and tranquility of Leiper’s Fork and the surrounding area.

To view and check the availability of the cottages, visit their website at potnkettlecottages.com, and when you’re ready to book or have specific questions, call or text Sam at 615-864-3392.

While You’re Visiting Leiper’s Fork

Don’t let the small community fool you because there’s plenty to see and do in and around Leiper’s Fork. For starters, visit all the shops and galleries. Alex Cirimelli at Serenite Maison has some incredible furnishings and gifts, and Moo Country (where Cowgirl meets Glam) is a can’t-miss ladies fashion boutique that offers custom and hard-to-find apparel with a sophisticated western touch.

The master suite in the Leiper’s Fork Inn features a private entry to a screened in porch/PotNKettleCottages

Leiper’s Fork offers a variety of eating options, ranging from the original Puckett’s grocery store (don’t miss open-mic night every Thursday at 6 pm), the down-home flavor of the Country Boy Restaurant (the breakfast platter or country-fried steak is delicious), and upscale dining at 1892 restaurant, located next to the large art gallery in the heart of town. 1892 doesn’t have their liquor license yet, but you’re welcome to bring your own wine and spirits. Beer is available onsite.

As a side note, we visited on Tuesday and didn’t think about eating until later that evening, so we ventured down the road to the Shell station where we found a food bar with all types of sandwiches, pizza, tasty sides. There’s nothing like washing down a sandwich made in an old country store with a couple of local craft brewed IPA’s I also picked up.

Leiper’s Fork Distillery is open six days a week (closed Monday) and is now offering tours at 5 p.m., and all Pot N’ Kettle Cottages are available year round (remember, Sam prefers you reach out to her directly at 615-864-3392), so hurry and book your distillery tour and stay today!