Natchez Trace Parkway Is Defined by Southern Culture, Music & Food, Part I

At the southwestern tip of Nashville lays the northern end of the Natchez Trace Parkway, an almost 450-mile trail that tells a tale of American culture – namely Southern culture – through music and food. Since the late 1700s, Native American Indians, entrepreneurs, adventurers, and bandits have traveled this diagonal route between the outskirts of Music City and Natchez, Mississippi.

I recall a handful of Sunday afternoons as a child when my parents drove along a curvy, tree-lined, two-lane road where our big, black Mercury Marquis rarely ventured over the parkways 50 mph speed limit. My dad, being a former Tennessee Highway Patrol officer and an ardent follower of rules, seemed to enjoy the drive with the windows down while chain-smoking a pack of Camel no-filter cigarettes. For me, it was the most tedious driving in the world, notably absent any modern-day technological device to occupy my time.

Like many childhood memories, a few decades can make all the difference. Today I’m able to appreciate what this ironic trail turned parkway offers. This journey begins close to my home in Nashville, traveling southwest before ending at the zero mile-marker in Natchez, which is one reason I’m inspired to write about the Parkway given I’ve never visited this old-south city which sits high atop a lower Mississippi River bluff.

Guidelines for Traveling the Trace

Before embarking on the journey, reviewing a few housekeeping issues is essential. First, the 50-mph speed limit is strictly enforced by federal park rangers. Much of the Parkway is curvy, and the road is shared by autos, RVs, motorcycles, and bicycles. Locals travel portions of the trail in their daily commutes, and the prohibition of commercial vehicles makes it easier to enjoy the scenery. 

As always, be careful and exercise judgment when you stop at rest areas along the parkway. Bandits and thieves, formally known as “Highwaymen,” have a storied history with the trail and unfortunately, that continues today. Several robberies and rapes have occurred not only in olden but in modern times too. While the park rangers attempt to patrol the trace and its numerous rest stops, they are understaffed and response times could be lengthy. 

Expect poor cellular service. The nationwide coverage map for the major cellular networks shows that practically all of the parkway route falls under their umbrella. That’s hardly the case. Almost all of the 60 miles I routinely drive between mile markers 370 and 430 is void of any decent coverage, except for “1X” coverage, and that’s about as useless as a…well, you get the point. Fortunately, when you exit the parkway at most towns, you’ll have 3G service or above. Finally, keep a sharp eye on the road because deer and wild turkey can be seen feeding close to the road and are accustomed to crossing throughout the day and night.

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Tennessee 

Milepost 442 

At the intersection of Highway 100 and milepost 442 is The Loveless Cafe. Known primarily for their biscuits and country ham, this iconic restaurant is a Cracker Barrel on steroids, even older and more authentic. The restaurant is open seven days a week from 7:00 a.m. until 9:00 p.m. and whatever you order will leave your belly full for many miles. You’ll be able to fill your gas tank and obtain any necessary supplies for your day’s journey.

Of course, Nashville is a hub for all types of music ranging from the historic Ryman Auditorium and Bridgestone Arena where you’ll find the days major acts performing, to literally hundreds of smaller joints where almost any musical genre can be heard. If you venture downtown toward the Ryman and downtown Nashville, check out Robert’s Western World on Broadway and Ole Red. You’ll find live music and can experience lots of authentic Nashville sounds. There are tons of places to hear singer-songwriters perform and the best is The Bluebird Cafe in the Green Hills section of Nashville. It’s a small venue so call ahead for reservations as most of the nights two performances sell out quickly. The renovated Franklin Theatre in downtown Franklin, TN offers a variety of performers and during the holidays usually show old movies, especially during the Christmas season.

Leiper’s Fork – Milepost 438

This once sleepy spot on Hillsboro Road is now a thriving tourist destination and one of my absolute favorite places in the South. Here you will find anything from organic fine dining at 1892 to “meat-and-three” (that’s a meat and three vegetables to your non-southerners) and barbecue can be had at the Country Boy Restaurant or the original Puckett’s.

For fashion-minded ladies, you’ll want to stop by Moo Country. Dawn Ann Ritter, an actress, and model turned fashion retailer, owns this delightful boutique that offers one-of-a-kind items and the latest fashion inspired by Dawn Ann’s Montana roots and love for the West. A number of galleries and gift shops occupy the remaining stores and old homes. I recommend Serenite Maison, where Alex and her staff stock a supply of local gifts including candles, leather accessories and unique furnishings.

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A relatively new addition to the area is the Leiper’s Fork Distillery. Lee Kennedy and his staff are in the early stages of producing what they hope is another outstanding Tennessee bourbon. Their first batch of rye is set for release on November 1, so stop by and purchase a bottle or two. Their inaugural bourbon should be ready in 2020. If possible, schedule a trip on the last Friday of the month so you can attend a Still House Session, featuring nationally known and up-and-coming songwriters and performers. If you want to elevate your karaoke skills and see if your vocal skills can compete with the many professional musicians who live nearby, then every Thursday is open-mic night at Puckett’s.

Whether you want to stay overnight or find a quiet retreat to re-engage your creative talents, consider booking one of the four properties owned and managed by Pot N’ Kettle Cottages. Not only do Sam and her husband Eric maintain four gorgeous and well-appointed houses in the community, and they also plan on opening the Leiper’s Fork Winery in the coming months. One of my new favorites is The Davis General Store. If you’re exciting the Trace at milepost 428, instead of turning left to go into Leiper’s Fork proper, take a right and you’ll find this charming store about three and a half miles on your left. Note: Weekends are the busiest time at Leiper’s Fork, so besides the lodging establishments, don’t expect to find much open on Monday and Tuesdays. 

Milepost 407-385

Between the Leiper’s Fork area and the state line around mile marker 350, there are a handful of pull-offs and stops you might consider. Between mile markers 407 and 385 you’ll find the Gordon House, Jackson Falls, and the site where the infamous explorer Meriweather Lewis (Lewis & Clark) met his demise at either his own hand or possibly a rambunctious Highwayman. Jackson Falls is just off the parkway beside a beautiful waterfall, you’ll find a  well-maintained three-quarter-mile hiking trail that takes you to Baker Bluff Overlook.

If for some reason you’re running low on fuel or snacks, there are several convenient stores on Highway 64 at mile marker 370. Other than a beautiful view and the Wayne County Welcome Center at Collinwood, the home of Country Music artist Mark Collie, there isn’t much to see. Be careful and watch for wildlife crossing the road, notably deer and wild turkeys.

Alabama

Milepost 337

The Alabama stretch of the Natchez Trace Parkway only takes you through about 30 miles of the state’s northwest corridor. Milepost 337 intersects State Highway 20 which will take you to the Florence/Muscle Shoals area. Founded in 1826, Florence is home to renowned fashion designer Billy Reid so be sure to visit his flagship store in downtown Florence. In late summer Reid and his staff host their Annual Shindig, featuring some of the regions up-and-coming blues and country acts like The Raconteurs, Margo Price, and living legends, the Blind Boys of Mississippi. In addition to the Friday evening fashion show, a VIP dinner included such top chefs such as Oxford, Mississippi’s John Currence, Kelly Fields of New Orleans, and South Carolina barbecue master Rodney Scott.

Restaurants worth visiting in downtown Florence include Odette, Ricatoni’s, Yumm Thai, and Trowbridge’s, which is a throwback to the old ice cream and sandwich shop that were staples in many small-town pharmacy’s.

The Muscle Shoals Sound

If Muscle Shoals sounds vaguely familiar, it’s because it’s home to two famous recording studios. Fame Studios, founded in 1959 by legendary producer Billy Sherrill and partners, played an integral role in the formation of Rhythm and Blues, Rock N’ Roll, and Country Music.  Muscle Shoals Sound Studio opened in 1969 by the famous Muscle Shoals Rhythm Section that was originally formed at Fame. At the time, it was the first recording studio owned and operated by session musicians. The studio’s first recording was of Cher. They continued to build a long list of artists that include Boz Scaggs, The Rolling Stones, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bob Dylan, Bob Seger, The Allman Brothers Band, Rod Stewart, Willie Nelson and a host of other regional and national acts. 

UPCOMING: The Natchez Trace Parkway, North to Central Mississippi