A Southerner’s Introduction to French Wine

Understanding wine, notably the wines of France, couldn’t be complicated. Learning the basics of French wine, including the various regions, will make ordering from an upscale wine menu or wine retailer a breeze. Here’s a Southerner’s introduction to French wine. 

Kudos to my good friend, Debbie Van Pelt, the Advanced Sommelier at Belle Meade Plantation and Winery in Nashville, TN, for her expertise and contribution to this article. Attending one of Deb’s wine classes is a must if you live near or are visiting Music City.

RELATED: Wine Sommelier Deb Van Pelt Explains Wine & Food Pairings

To be perfectly candid, I ask Deb to help me tackle this article over my own insecurities of understanding French wine. I lay the blame on the labels on French wines. My one year of high school French class is useless when it comes to reading their labels. In creating a Southerner’s introduction to French wine, our objective is to educate you on what to look for when reading French wine labels.

France: The ‘Mother Ship’ of Wine

Among experts, France is considered the “mother ship” of wine. If you have doubts, ask a French winemaker. Italy can rightfully lay claim to having produced wine longer. However, no country can lay claim to better wines because France produces some of the finest wines in the world.

In her classic book, The Wine Bible, wine expert Karen MacNeil wrote, “Like French food, French wine has been (and largely remains) the benchmark against which greatness elsewhere is judged. But France’s impact extends even further. The country has molded the very way we think about great wine.”

French Winemaking Began During The Roman Empire

The art of French winemaking began during the Roman empire. Italians brought viticulture to the area we know today as France. Interestingly, wine grew more popular and essential during the rise of Catholicism. 

While the church frowned on overindulgence, moderate drinking found its place in religion and society. Dom Perignon, a nineteenth-century French monk, is credited with perfecting the famous and expensive Champagne that bears his name. 

(FYI, only sparkling wines produced in the Champagne region of France can use that term. All other sparkling wines from California or other countries refer to themselves as Sparkling Wine)

In 1855, Napoleon III wanted a system to classify Bordeaux’s finest wines. Today a complex and sophisticated that has remained virtually unchanged since its inception recognizes France’s finest products, especially its vino.

Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée and It’s Importance

French winemakers are obsessed with geography and, rightfully so. Due to rising economic pressures, in 1930, the French created a complex regulatory system known as the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) to notate the region and year where the wine, cheese, butter, and other agricultural products originate. 

Not all French wines can earn the AOC distinction. Today, just over 300 French wines can use the AOC label because they adhere to specific rules and high standards. 

French Wine Labels Are to Blame

Have you ever stared ignorantly at a list of four dozen French wines, having no damn clue what anything meant? Maybe the same empty feeling engulfed you while standing next to your bestie in an upscale wine store. If so, blame everything on the label.

Wines grown and bottled in the U.S. may highlight the grape variety and state or region where production occurred.

For example, a bottle of California Cabernet Sauvignon, the grape used to create this American classic. This particular photo of a Silver Oak bottle here lists the winery (Silver Oak), the year the wine was produced (2008), the grape used (Cabernet), and the region (Alexander Valley). However, not all American wine labels note the area, but most highlight the State.

French winemakers are more concerned about the region of production versus the grape varieties used. The label on this 2009 Chateau Mouton Rothschild tells us the year, the winery or estate (Chateau Mouton Rothschild, which tells us this wine is a first growth), the AOC designation, the region where the wine grows (Pauillac, in Bordeaux). This particular vintage contains 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot and is rated a 99 by Robert Parker. However, that information isn’t found on the label, and the grapes used, along with their percentages, change based on weather and growing conditions. The combination for the 2010 vintage found Cabernet Sauvignon at 94 percent and Merlot at 6%.

More importantly, Europeans trademarked terms such as Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne, Chianti, and Port. However, there are grape varieties grown in the U.S. that may exhibit similar characteristics.

Why Understanding French Wine Labels Are Important

Developing a basic knowledge of French wines is essential for many reasons. First and foremost, understanding how France produces some of the world’s finest wines will help you appreciate other wines, most notably American wines.

The first key to understanding French wines is to know the various winemaking regions. French law protects their demarcated regions to ensure wines are produced in a particular region. The best French wines have the AOC designation on the label. This tells us the specific region where the wine was bottled—for example, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire, Champagne, and so on. 

The European Union recently established another set of rules known as Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). In classic French style, they do their own thing. Have to love the French.

Bordeaux

Like two estranged lovers, wine found perfection in France’s Bordeaux region. How the grapes are blended is the key.

The place to begin is in the Bordeaux region of France. Wines from Bordeaux are almost always a blend of Cabernet or Merlot. The only other grapes allowed are Cabernet Franc (a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon), Malbec (yes, it’s native home in France, not Argentina), and finally, Petite Verdot, a grape usually added for a depth of color. 

There’s no doubt Bordeaux wines can be costly. Fortunately, the region also produces what we call value wines. Keep in mind that “value” doesn’t or shouldn’t mean “cheap.” You’ll recognize the difference when you taste one.

Look for labels from the satellites instead of the cru regions. Cotes means hillsides and are usually adjacent to the Cru regions. Cote de Blaye is a good choice. Be prepared to spend $25-30$ on an entry-level French Bordeaux. If you love Cabernet, Malbec, or Merlot, you’ll love a nice Bordeaux.

Burgundy or Bourgogne (boar-goan-ya)

Here we find the pinnacle of two grapes. One red, or Bourgogne Rouge, and one white, or Bourgogne Blanc. White Burgundy’s are some of the finest white wines in the world. Burgundies are also known for their complexity. 

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the two dominant grape varieties grown in Burgundy. There are exceptions, but let’s start with this premise. Burgundy is broken into two parts: the north is home to Cote dOr, the finest expression of Pinot Noir on the planet. South of Beaune, which is in the middle (produces whites and reds), mostly Chardonnay. 

Think of Burgundy wines in this simplistic manner: basically all Burgundy red wines are made from Pinot Noir, and practically all whites wines are made from Chardonnay. Because the weather in Burgundy can vary greatly, vintages can vary greatly. 

The Grand Cru’s, the highest French wine designation, are highly prized and very expensive. There are only 32 vineyards in Burgundy with the Grand Cru designation. Look for value in the lesser communes. Again, the word cote is key. 

Separate from, but part of Burgundy is Chablis. North of Cote d’Or. This is Chardonnay land as well, usually unoaked, and is the most delightful, crisp, clean version of Chardonnay.

Beaujolais

South of Burgundy, we find Beaujolaise and the lowly grape Gamay. Beaujolais is considered part of Burgundy, yet the two regions have almost nothing in common. The grapes and winemaking methods are unique to each area. 

Interestingly, Beaujolais is sometimes referred to as the only white wine that is red. Nouveau Beaujolais, released the third Thursday in November and is the chocolate chip cookie dough of wine.

A better version is Beaujolais Villages. Just as the name implies, they are made in the village surrounding Beaujolaise.

But far superior is the Crus of Beaujolais. You’ll never see the name Beaujolais on the label, but the name of the cru. These wines are amazing! You’ll pay a little more, but they’re so worth it! Google Crus of Beaujolais for a comprehensive list. My favorite is Morgon.

The Loire

The Loire Valley runs east to west down to the sea and is the most diverse wine region in France. It’s often called “the garden of France.” The region is well-known for roses, reds, and sparkling wines. (Remember, unless a sparkling wine is grown and produced in the Champagne region, it cannot use the term.)

The two most common grapes of the Loire are sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc. Both of these varieties call the Loire their home. Sauvignon Blanc is found mostly in the Eastern region. We know it as Sancerre, and it is a racey, high acid delight!

In the Touraine or the middle region of France, we find Chenin Blanc, which can be dry, sweet, sparkling, or oaked! Look for Vouvray or Savenirres, as these are the two biggest production areas for Chenin Blanc.

As for reds, Cab Franc is a real prize here, a better expression on its own than Bordeaux. You’ll see Chinon on the label.

Please make your way to the western edge where the Loire River runs into the sea to find one of my favorites, Muscadet (moose-ka-day). 

A beautiful scenic town carries the name of the wine. The grape is Melon de Bourgogne, as monks brought this sturdy little grape to this region from Burgundy, hence the name. It tastes like sea salt and oyster shells and is delicious with seafood!

Champagne

Yes, Champagne, the sparkling wine grown in the Champagne region of France, and the only sparkling wine that can bear the name. A Southerner’s introduction to French wine should most definitely include a section on this wonderful region. Well-known houses include Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger, and of course, Dom Perignon. 

Champagne is clearly one of the most distinct wines you’ll ever taste. Colder temperatures, combined with limestone soils, equate to a definitive terroir. All Champagnes are blends of many wines. What distinguishes one from another is the blending process.

Champagne can range from very dry to sweet. The driest is Brut Nature, followed by Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry, Sec, Demi-Sec, and Sweet.

Other Notable French Wine Regions

Some additional wine-making regions in France include Alsace, Languedoc-Roussillon, and Provence. We hope you’ve enjoyed reading “A Southerner’s Introduction to French wine.” More important than reading about wine is the enjoyment of drinking wine.

My sincere thanks to Advance Sommelier Deb Van Pelt for her insight and excitement of drinking and enjoying fine wine.