A Southern Man’s Guide to Men’s Watches

Watches, more than just timekeepers, are a reflection of our individuality. They offer a unique insight into a man’s character, much like purses do for women. Here’s a Southern man’s guide to the world of men’s watches, a guide that takes into account the unique style and cultural influences of the Southern United States, from the practical to the opulent.

Wristwatches, a concept that dates back to 1812, were initially a rare sight reserved for the affluent. However, a significant shift occurred in 1880 when the German government issued wristwatches to naval officers. This decision was made to enable the officers to keep track of time while maintaining the use of both hands in combat. The aftermath of World War I saw a surge in the popularity of wristwatches, leading to a decline in the number of men carrying pocket watches. This evolution of wristwatches is a fascinating journey that has shaped the world of men’s fashion. 

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The late 19th century saw soldiers facing a dilemma with wristwatches and delicate mechanical instruments exposed to various elements, such as high altitudes and water. This led to watches being primarily carried in a man’s pocket. However, in 1926, Rolex introduced the Oyster, a game-changing ‘water-resistant’ wristwatch. The Oyster was the first waterproof wristwatch in the world, featuring a hermetically sealed case that protected the movement from water and dust. To demonstrate its capabilities, Rolex presented one to Mercedes Gleitze, who proved its water resistance by producing a watch that kept perfect time after a 10-hour swim across the English Channel.

Why Wear a Watch?

There are two reasons men wear watches. First, to check the time of day, depending on the watch, the day, and the date. The second and equally important reason is to make a fashion statement. Watches serve both these purposes, regardless of which is more important to you. In fact, for men, who have fewer fashion accessories available, our watches have taken on an even greater role, becoming a significant part of our fashion statement. A well-chosen watch can complement an outfit, express personal style, and even convey social status.

One of my earliest memories of my dad is him wearing a gold Timex wristwatch with a flexible band. Its purpose was more practical than stylish. Being on time was important to him, in fact, ‘on time’ meant being 10 minutes early.   

Watch Movement

Before we dive into the various brands and styles, understanding a watch’s internal movement or “caliber” is essential. After all, a watch’s movement makes a timepiece tick and, in many cases, separates a cheap watch from an expensive one. So, when it comes to watches, movement matters—a lot.

Mechanical 

The earliest watches were mechanical because there were no batteries to drive the internal movement that kept the hands operating. Mechanical watches are powered by a mainspring that drives the gears. They must be frequently wound, and because of the many moving parts, they require constant care and maintenance by a skilled repairman. However, their enduring quality, their ability to last a lifetime with proper care, is what makes true watch connoisseurs prefer and collect mechanical movement watches. This enduring quality should instill confidence in your choice of a mechanical watch as a worthy investment.

Automatic 

Internal watch movements advanced with the introduction of automatic watches. Although automatic movement watches still contain a mainspring, the natural movement of the wearer maintains accurate time. If you don’t wear an automatic watch for three to four days, you’ll need to reset and rewind the watch. There are different types of Automatic movements, but for the purpose of this article, we’ll keep it simple. Automatic watches are usually thicker and heavier than Quartz or Mechanical watches. Think Rolex.

Quartz 

The battery replaces the mainspring, which powers a mechanical watch. Quartz watches don’t require winding them; the batteries usually last three to four years. These watches are much less expensive than automatic or mechanical watches. However, high-end watchmakers such as Patek Philippe also utilize quartz movement.

Does it Matter Where a Watch Is Made?

Switzerland dominates the industry, especially in the area of fine watches. While Germans were recognized for making the finest clocks, the Swiss have taken watch-making to another level. Their craftsmanship, attention to detail and the quality of the pieces used to assemble watches are what separate the Swiss from other countries.

Below are a few reasons why certified Swiss watches are regarded as the world’s best:

• Their standards are incredibly high. Laws codified in 1971 and revised in 1995 established legal standards for Swiss-made watches, and they must meet these specific guidelines.
• All watches must be assembled in Switzerland and must undergo thorough inspections.
• Sixty percent of the components must come from the watch’s manufacturer.
• They use only the finest and highest quality materials, such as 316L surgical steel.

Watchmakers such as Longines, Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Vacheron Constantin produced superb watches and began aggressively marketing to Americans after World War II. However, Japan and France also produce high-quality timepieces.

Categories and Examples of Watches 

We’ll categorize watches from basic to ultra-luxury. If you own or are in the market for the latter, you probably need to read this article because you are already a watch connoisseur.  And while Rolex is one of the most widely recognized luxury watch brands, it isn’t the best or most expensive brand by far.  

Basic Watch Brands (Under $500)

Swiss brands like Swatch and MWC (Military Watch Company) dominate the market in terms of lower-tier watches. Interestingly, the name “Swatch” stands for “second watch,” the company also owns higher-tier brands such as Rado, Tissot, Calvin Klein, Hamilton, Rado, and Longines.

Lower-tier brands more familiar to American consumers include Apple, Casio, Citizen, DKNY, Fossil, Hugo Boss, Lacoste, Michael Kors, Pulsar, Seiko, Timex, and Tommy Hilfiger.

I think Timex is one of the best basic brands for the money. Not only are they reasonably priced, they are functional, keep accurate time, and come in various styles and colors. Think of them as costume jewelry for men. Prices range from $39.00 to $495.00.

For sports and outdoor activities, you can’t beat a Timex Ironman or Armitron Pro Sport for function and durability.

Entry-Level Luxury Watches ($500-$1,500)

Popular Swiss brands in this category include Hamilton, Raymond Weil, Tissot, and Victorinox. Others like Movado, Shinola, and Versace are also popular.

In 2002, I purchased a Tissot on a trip to Washington, D.C. I wasn’t familiar with the brand then, and it has been my go-to watch for many years. I paid $203 for the watch and recently had it cleaned and repaired for $300. It still looks and keeps time well.

Next on my list is a Hamilton Navy Scuba Auto. This watch retails for $745. Another great option is the Tissot Seastar 1000 Chronograph, available in six variations and retails for $495.

A relatively new U.S.-made watch is Shinola. Their flagship watch is the Runwell Automatic, which retails for approximately $1,100. Bands are available in several different colors and textures.

Their Omaha 26 is a military-influenced watch, giving a nod to the Omaha-class U.S. Navy cruisers. At $650, it’s a more affordable and stylish option. It has a quartz movement and is comprised of both Swiss and other imported parts.

 

Basic Luxury Watches ($1,500 – $5,000)

Now we’re getting into such recognizable brands as Longines, Rado, Tudor, David Yurman, Louis Vuitton, and Tag Heuer. 

This Tag Heuer Formula 1 Quartz watch comes in several color variations and retails for $1,550.

For both style and quality, you can’t be a Tudor, which is part of Rolex. Once known as a “poor man’s Rolex,” Tudor has come into their own. In years past, the price difference came down to Tudor’s use of third-party movements. In other words, Tudor found it more cost-effective to purchase calibers from other Swiss companies, whereas Rolex built its own. While many view Rolex as a more prestigious watch, Tudor offers style and quality at an affordable price point for this category.  

If elegance is what you desire at this price point, it’s hard to beat a Longines. This Longines Presence is an automatic timepiece that is classic to the core. With a black leather band, it retails for $1,300. 

While David Yurman and Louis Vuitton are classic luxury brands, highly quality watches are available at similar price points.

Luxury Watches ($5,000 – $10,000)

Breitling, Cartier, Montblanc, Omega, Panerai, and Rolex are Swiss watches you’ll find in this category. Others are Tiffany, Bulgari, David Webb, and Zenith. 

The indisputable king has to be Rolex, although Omega certainly holds its own in the luxury category. One of the most popular Rolex watches ever is the Submariner Date. Designed for scuba divers, this watch can be taken to depths of 1,000 feet, deeper than most sport divers will venture.

The Rolex President, named in honor of President Dwight Eisenhower, is usually seen in gold. The bezel can be encrusted with diamonds, driving the price of this exquisite timepiece north of $50,000. My favorite is the Rolex Yacht-Master in Oyster Steel, which retails for $11,800.

Yet another luxury brand is Grand Seiko, but distinguishes this brand from its lower-tier cousin, Seiko. Think of it this way: Honda makes a good car, and it makes an even better Lexus. The same company owns both, but the quality and craftsmanship differ.

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Seiko watches are good, however, they are manufactured by machines and cannot incorporate the handmade features of a Grand Seiko. For example, the stainless steel in a Grand Seiko is of much higher quality. Seiko’s generally start around $50, with the best ones getting into the $400 range. 

So before you thumb your nose when you see a Seiko watch, ensure it’s not a Grand Seiko. Many watch experts see these watches as a good buy, especially compared to watches with similar price points. I wouldn’t spend $250 -$500 on a Seiko when other brands such as Tissot, Hamilton, and Shinola are available.

This Grand Seiko from their Elegance Collection retails in the U.S. for $6,900 and is a mechanical manual winding watch that will keep time for about three days before you’ll need to rewind it. 

High-End Luxury Watches ($10,000 – $40,000)

Brands such as Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin fall into a more select category. These watches typically have high resale values and impeccable craftsmanship and are often handmade. Prices fluctuate widely in this category and can quickly exceed $40,000.

Ultra Luxury Watches ($40,000 & up)

Unless you are a watch enthusiast, chances are you’ve never heard of these brands such as Louis Moinet and Richard Mille. Typically, only high-end collectors and small niche boutiques carry these watches. Their superior craftsmanship and limited availability also contribute to their hefty price tag. 

Buying New or Used Luxury Watches

If you are considering purchasing a watch at the luxury level or higher, look at reputable jewelers or watch sellers. Watches at or above these levels often retain their value; some may even increase in value over time. When purchasing a used watch, ensure it’s certified and in excellent condition.

Independent dealers such as Nashville Watch specialize in used luxury watches such as Rolex, Tudor, Omega, and Patek Phillippe.