A Southern Man’s Guide to Men’s Watches

Not only does a watch help keep us on schedule, but it’s also one of the few accessories that provide a glimpse into a man’s soul; like purses do for women. Here is a southern man’s guide to men’s watches, from the practical to luxurious. 

While the idea of a wristwatch had been around since about 1812, they were rare and worn only by the wealthy. However, in 1880 they were given to German Naval officers so they maintain the use of both hands in combat. Soldiers returning from World War I helped popularize the wristwatch which decreased the number of men carrying pocket watches. 

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The problem with soldiers wearing a wristwatch in the late 19th century is they were delicate mechanical instruments that would be exposed to a multitude of elements such as high altitudes and water. That’s why watches were primarily carried in a man’s pocket. In 1926, Rolex introduced the Oyster, which was the first “water-resistant” wristwatch. To prove the concept, Rolex gave one to Mercedes Gleitze, who after a 10-hour swim across the English Channel, produced a watch keeping perfect time.

Why Wear a Watch?

There are two reasons men to wear watches. First, to check the time of day, and depending on the watch, maybe even the day and/or date. The second is to make a fashion statement. Regardless of which one is most important to you, I view watches as serving both purposes. After all, men have fewer fashion accessories available so our watches take on an even greater role.

 One of my earliest memories of my dad is him wearing a gold Timex wristwatch with a flexible band. Its purpose was more practical than stylish. Being on time was important to him, in fact, “on time” meant being 10 minutes early. In the mid-1970s I remember either my mom or Santa Claus giving us the latest and most stylish technological gadgets of the era, a gold digital watch. I think it was a Casio or Timex. 

One of the drawbacks of most digital watches is you had to use your opposite hand to press a button so you could read the time. Plus, batteries had to be changed more frequently and this left men without a timepiece if they had to return the watch to the manufacturer. 

Watch Movement

Before we dive into the various brands and styles, understanding a watch’s internal movement or “caliber” is important. After all, a watch’s movement is what makes a timepiece tick and in many cases, what separates a cheap watch from an expensive one. So when it comes to watches, movement matters. A lot.

Mechanical 

The earliest watches were mechanical because there were no batteries to drive the internal movement that keep the hands operating. Mechanical watches are powered by a mainspring that drives the gears. They must be frequently wound and because of the many moving parts, require constant care and maintenance by a skilled repairman. True watch connoisseurs prefer and collect mechanical movement watches, and with proper care, they will last a lifetime. Most old pocket watches are mechanical movement.

Automatic 

The internal watch movement advanced when automatic watches were introduced. Although they still contain a mainspring, automatic watches are wound by the natural movement of the wearer. If you don’t wear an automatic watch for three to four days, you’ll need to reset and rewind the watch. There are different types of Automatic movements, but for the purpose of this article, we’ll keep it simple. Automatic watches are usually thicker and heavier than Quartz or Mechanical watches. Think Rolex.

Quartz 

This movement is powered by a battery and was first introduced by Seiko in 1969. The battery replaces the mainspring which is what powers a mechanical watch. Quartz watches don’t require you to wind the watch and the batteries usually last three to four years. These watches are much less expensive than automatic or mechanical watches. However, high-end watchmakers such as Patek Philippe also utilize quartz movement. 

Does it Matter Where a Watch Is Made?

Definitely. Switzerland dominates the industry, especially for fine watches. While Germans were recognized for making the finest clocks, the Swiss have taken watch making to another level. Their craftsmanship, attention to detail and the quality of the pieces used to assemble watches are what separate the Swiss from other countries. 

Below are a few reasons why certified Swiss watches are regarded as the world’s best:

• Their standards are extremely high. Laws codified in 1971 and revised in 1995 establish legal standards for Swiss-made watches and they must meet these specific guidelines.
• All watches must be set up in Switzerland and must undergo thorough inspections
• Sixty percent of the components must come from the watch’s manufacturer
• They use only the finest and highest quality materials such as 316L surgical steel.

Watchmakers such as Longines, Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Vacheron Constantin produce superb watches and began aggressively marketing to Americans after World War II. However, Japan and France also produce high-quality timepieces.

Categories and Examples of Watches 

We’ll categorize watches from basic to ultra-luxury. If you own or are in the market for the latter, then you’re probably not reading this article because you are already a watch connoisseur.  And while Rolex is one of the most widely recognized luxury watch brands, it isn’t the best or most expensive brand by far. 

Basic Watch Brands (Under $500)

When it comes to lower-tier watches, Swiss brands like Swatch and MWC (Military Watch Company) dominate the market. Interestingly, the name “Swatch” stands for “second watch,” and the company also owns such higher-tier brands as Rado, Tissot, Calvin Klein, Hamilton, Rado, and Longines.

Lower-tier brands more familiar to American consumers include Apple, Casio, Citizen, DKNY, Fossil, Hugo Boss, Lacoste, Michael Kors, Pulsar, Seiko, Timex, and Tommy Hilfiger.

Personally, I think Timex is one of the best basic brands for the money. Not only are they reasonably priced, they functional, keep accurate time, and come in a variety of styles and colors. Think of them as costume jewelry for men. Prices range from $39.00 to $495.00. 

For sports and outdoor activities, you can’t beat a Timex Ironman or Armitron Pro Sport for function and durability.

Entry-Level Luxury Watches ($500-$1,500)

Popular Swiss brands in this category include Hamilton, Raymond Weil, Tissot, and Victorinox. Others such as Movado, Shinola, and Versace are also popular.

In 2002 purchased this Tissot on a trip to Washington, D.C. At the time, I wasn’t familiar with the brand, and it has been my go-to watch for many years. I paid $203 for the watch and recently had it cleaned and repaired for $300. It still looks and keeps time well. 

Next on my list is a Hamilton Navy Scuba Auto with a blue rubber band. This watch retails for $745. Another great option is the Tissot Seastar 1000 Chronograph, which is available in six variations and retails for $495.

A relatively new U.S. made watch is Shinola. Their flagship watch is the Runwell Automatic and retails for approximately $1,100. Bands are available in several different colors and textures.

Their Omaha 26 is a military influenced watch giving a nod to the Omaha-class U.S. Navy cruisers. At $650, it’s a more affordable and stylish option. It has a quartz movement and is comprised of both Swiss and other imported parts.

 

Basic Luxury Watches ($1,500 – $5,000)

Now we’re getting into such recognizable brands as Longines, Rado, Tudor, David Yurman, Louis Vuitton, and Tag Heuer. 

This Tag Heuer Formula 1 Quartz watch comes in several color variations and retails for $1,550.

For both style and quality, you can’t be a Tudor, which is part of Rolex. Once known as a “poor man’s Rolex,” Tudor has come into their own. In years past the price difference between the two came down to Tudor’s use of third-party movements. In other words, Tudor found it more cost-effective to purchase calibers from other Swiss companies, whereby Rolex built their own. While Rolex is rightfully viewed as a more prestigious watch, Tudor offers both style and quality at an affordable price point for this category. 

If elegance is what you desire at this price point, it’s hard to beat a Longines. This Longines Presence is an automatic timepiece that is classic to the core. With a black leather band, it retails for $1,300. 

While David Yurman and Louis Vuitton are classic luxury brands, I would bypass their watches. Better timepieces can be purchased by true watch manufacturers. 

Luxury Watches ($5,000 – $10,000)

Breitling, Cartier, Montblanc, Omega, Panerai, and Rolex are Swiss watches you’ll find in this category. Others are Tiffany, Bulgari, David Webb, and Zenith. 

The undisputable king has to be Rolex, although Omega certainly holds its own in the luxury category. One of the most popular Rolex watches ever is the Submariner Date. Designed for scuba divers, this watch can be taken to depths of 1,000 feet, which is deeper than most sport divers will venture. 

The Rolex President, named in honor of President Dwight Eisenhower, is usually seen, in gold and the bezel can be encrusted with diamonds, driving the price of this exquisite timepiece north of $50,000. My personal favorite is the Rolex Yacht-Master in Oyster Steel which retails for $11,800.

Yet another luxury brand is Grand Seiko, but don’t confuse this brand with their lower-tier cousin, Seiko. Think of it this way; Honda makes a good car, and it makes an even better Lexus. Both are owned by the same company, yet the difference is in the quality and craftsmanship.

Seiko watches are good, however, they are manufactured by machines and cannot incorporate the handmade features of a Grand Seiko. For example, the stainless steel in a Grand Seiko is of much higher quality. Seiko’s generally start around $50, with the best ones getting into the $400 range. 

So before you thumb your nose when you see a Seiko watch, make sure it’s not a Grand Seiko. Many watch experts see these watches as a good buy, especially when compared to watches with similar price points. Personally, I wouldn’t spend $250 -$500 on a Seiko when other brands such as Tissot, Hamilton, and Shinola are available.

This Grand Seiko from their Elegance Collection retails in the U.S. for $6,900 and is a mechanical manual winding watch that will keep time for about three days before you’ll need to wind it again. 

High-End Luxury Watches ($10,000 – $40,000)

This is a different category comprised of such brands as Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin. These watches typically have very high resale values, impeccable craftsmanship and are often entirely handmade. Prices tend to fluctuate widely in this category and can quickly exceed $40,000.

Ultra Luxury Watches ($40,000 & up)

Unless you are a watch aficionado, chances are you’ve never heard of these brands such as Louis Moinet and Richard Mille. They are only carried by high-end collectors and small niche boutiques. Plus, their superior craftsmanship and limited availability contribute to their hefty price tag. 

Buying New or Used Luxury Watches

If you are considering purchasing a watch at the luxury level or higher, look at reputable jewelers or watch sellers. Watches at or above these levels often retain their value and some may even increase in value over time. When purchasing a used watch, make sure it’s certified and in excellent condition.

Independent dealers such as Nashville Watch specialize in used luxury watches such as Rolex, Tudor, Omega, and Patek Phillippe.